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Olivia, shoe maker and designer
"My career as artisanal shoe maker has started during the University: I was studying Philosophy in Urbino, which is known for its up and down streets, and everyday I use to walk a lot but my shoes were never comfortable. That's why I decided to create them on my own! "
Pesaro, the place in which I live, is not part of the renowned Marche' shoes district so it was very difficult to find somebody to help me in this challenge. But there is always a solution if you really want to do something, and I found an excellent leather craftsman in Pesaro, that has immediately decided to welcome me in his lab. Here I learned to create handmade sandals, leather bags and belts and everyday it was a bliss to smell the leather scent.
I was happy like never before, but nevertheless that wasn't enough, so I decided to enroll for a shoe design course and right after the diploma (and the Philosophy degree too!) I started working for a shoe firm in Tuscany as pattern maker first and as collection manager in a second moment.
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It was exactly in Tuscany that I met a master artisan specialized in luxury bespoke shoes totally handmade. Everyday I went to his workshop after my work shift just to stare at him while working in order to assimilate as much secrets as I could. He has been able to transfer all his knowledge to me, and it's only thanks to him that now I know how to make a totally handmade pair of shoes on my own. Then it comes that October's day...the day in which I quit my job and I decided to come back in Pesaro and realize my dream.
Today I design and realize bespoke shoes in a meticulous way, taking so much care of the comfort and the aesthetic. I'm responsible for all the stages of production, I cut the leather, I sew the upper and I prepare sole and heels.
I use a wide variety of leathers, such as calf, goat and fish (yes, fish too!) and I'm always looking for innovative materials, which is a very interesting part of my job.
A peculiarity of my production is that every pair of shoes I make has a vegetal tanned lining, which is natural and totally nonallergic.
I don't have a set of samples to show because every work is totally fine-tuned on my customers needs. I use to have a first meeting with my client, during which I like to discover his/her personality and to grab some distinctive feature to put in the shoe design. Of course I need his/her help to understand which kind of shoes he/she wants to have, a pair of shoes that has to represent who he/she is.
Then I realize some sketches and I advance my proposal, with all the specifics such as the kind of leather, the shape and the sole. After this stage (made on paper) I start to work on the model that is a "always in progress" project sprung by the continuous interaction between my client and me. That's why every creation is unique and unrepeatable.
It is an aesthetic functional object that will become a piece of art when it will start walking: that's why the client will be the one and only to complete and carry on this work of art.
Text credits: Enrico Presicci
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